The Hoxton Grille

E1 City Life September 2007

HGETTING A GRILLEING
ROBERT COOK VISISTS THE STYLISH HOXTON GRILLE

There’s a lot for eager diners to enjoy at The Hoxton Grille. The modernity of its rich, brown décor matches the quality of the classy, contemporary cuisine, enticing diners in. And The Grille boasts additional facilities, including a bar and an open atrium, the latter centred around a tree which I took to be an olive.

Thoughts about olives inevitably turn the mind to food. Accordingly, my companion and I examined the Starters & Salads list. I selected the traditional yet refined Scottish Smoked Salmon (£7.50) – tantalisingly juicy strips of fish, accompanied by soda bread and a delightful creamy sauce. There was also a thick slice of lemon to squeeze, though most of the juice shot onto me, which was not the intended target. My friend is a vegetarian so he chose a suitable starter, the “Grille” House Salad (£5.00). Its mixed leaves and cherry tomatoes were interspersed with sap-filled pear and chewy walnuts, the whole concoction topped by a subtle blue cheese.

The Hoxton hotel is located right above The Grille, and its lobby was concealed from us by a screen engraved with iconic London landmarks. It was with interest that I identified the artfully-sketched outlines- wavering depictions of City Hall, the ‘Gherkin’, St Paul’s and the suchlike clearly laid out in order along the glass. But this charming cityscape is not so unexpected as the artworks that greet diners on their way into the building: a pair of bronze greyhounds and a wire frame car!

Returning to the subject of food, we chose our second course from the Grills & Mains list.
Though tempted by the Grilled Lobster & Chips, I eventually opted for the mouth watering Roast Lamb Rump (£14). Pieces of tender meat sat on atop a base of vegetable cous cous, surrounded by liquidy cucumber and mint raita. My companion, disbarred from such delights, chose the Vegetarian Sausages with caramelised apple mash, smothered in tomato and oregano sauce (£8).

Though vegetarian sausages seem a contradiction in terms to me, he consumed them with relish. Our appetites were almost sated, but, strangely, we found just enough room for dessert. Though wary after my fruit-related mishap at the start of the meal, I selected the appetising Lemon Tart (£5.50), elegantly presented upon a long rectangular plate. The tart was delicious, but even tastier was the scoop of delicate blueberry ice cream that accompanied it. My friend made an equally delightful choice – the extravagant Raspberry and Nectarine Trifle (also £5.50). It nestled in a glass vessel and was as lovely as it had promised to be.

Whether choosing from the evening selection or the extensive weekend brunch menu, the food at The Hoxton Grille is filling, and high-quality to boot. All in all, it’s the perfect venue for a chic and satisfying meal.