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Since opening in Leeds in 2002, Room has grown into a small but perfectly formed chain of three glam and glitzy northern brasseries.
They have found success with their retro cuisine with a twist and attract celebrities with their noon-till-late cocktail bars.
Now they have launched their second phase with Grill – a new label but a similar theme. The first opened in one of London’s hippest areas, closely followed by Harrogate Grille in the newly refurbished Balmoral Hotel, no stranger to fashionable restaurants as it was once home to the trend setting Villu Toots.
It’s hard to see what sets Grille apart from Room, except perhaps that Grille has avoided the city centre, opting instead for a leafy street off the Kings Road.
Mustard – coloured leather banquettes line the room. Dark, polished wood floors and discreet art on exposed brick walls give a feeling of New York eateries which, perhaps surprisingly, works well in Harrogate.
The restaurant sits alongside the hotel reception, so there is constant movement, crying babies and mobile phones ringing. In other words, if you want a quiet place, this isn’t for you.
On my visit the staff were almost equal in number to the customers, so we were never short of attention.
The menu is concise, while trying to offer something for everyone. There is a daily special, starters, pasta, sandwiches, mains, grills and some tempting nursery puddings.
You can eat from £7 for a croquet monsieur up to £20 for a T-Bone, but most hover around £12. Wines are equally well priced, with a glass from £3.85, bottles from £13.95 to £35 and a selection of reserve wines from £40 to £80.
I found the chicken liver parfait very ‘livery’ but nonetheless enjoyable. The prawn cocktail was unconventional as the prawns were mixed with unevenly chopped red and spring onions – a touch overpowering for the poor things! Although beautifully presented on a large rectangular plate, it still felt a little overpriced at £7.50.
The same can’t be said for the steak. A fat, succulent rump with a heady peppercorn sauce and divine chips, this was classic cooking at it’s best and worth every penny. I had reservations about it being served on a wooden bored but it was adequately reassured by the charming waitress.
A classic pork Holstein had a crisp crumb coating, a tender escalope within and a soft-yolked fried egg on top. Again, it was outstanding.
Buyer beware though, side dishes are £2.95 each and bottled water £3.50. our two-course midweek supper with three glasses of wine and water cost a hefty £71. there is however a great early-bird menu of seven main dishes each priced £7 if you fancy eating before 7pm.
Though only open for two weeks there is a buzz about the place and I’m sure it’s going to get even louder.
Subsequent to my visit I have been informed that Grille has restructured its prices, which is great news. The overpriced prawn cocktail is now £6.95 and those costly side dishes a more respectable £2.50. With the new prices our dinner would have cost a more reasonable £59 – almost a bargain for food of this quality.
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