Food for grown-ups

Metro 9th May 2007

The Harrogate Grille ***

Pity the poor businessman as he trudges from conference hall to meeting room with only the thought of a dull meal in an anonymous hotel to sustain him through an endless procession of PowerPoint presentations.

This unfortunate chap obviously hasn’t been to Harrogate. Imagine his counterpart a cool entrepreneurial type leaving Harrogate International Centre. Business successfully concluded, our sharp-suited executive quite rightly feels a slap up meal is in order. Luckily the newly opened Harrogate Grille is just around the corner.

It is the second Grille opening; the first was the Hoxton Grille, which opened in London last year. The brains behind the operation are John Pallagi and Simon Wright of Room fame; the pair have successfully established the Room restaurants in Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool as chic playgrounds for urban diners, offering imaginative modern updates on retro dishes.

The Grilles, however, are a more grown-up, relaxed experience. Situated in the Balmoral Hotel – currently undergoing a revamp that will transform the Victorian building into a sophisticated boutique – the Harrogate Grille is an oasis of comfort, catering for every eating contingency from breakfast to late-night snack. The décor may not stand out in Hoxton – London’s heartland of hip – but in Harrogate, where chintz and conservatism rule, the dark, ash-coloured walls, geometric ceiling mouldings and under-lighting fell excitingly up to date. A den area at one end updates the gentleman’s club for the 21st century, with large leather furniture in interesting shapes, for lounging.

We chose a window table that gave us a view of the entire restaurant and the terrace. A few hardy souls were drinking alfresco. Poring over the menu, we noted that the Grilles food prioritised substance over style. Here, modern British cuisine bumps up against classic French Bistro food in a way that will bore those in search of fashionable flourishes and delight people who want a good dinner.

Our wine was lovely. The list is comprehensive, and weighted towards people with expensive budgets, with a premium selection of reserve reds and whites, plus a decent choice of champagnes for those in the money.

Offering 50cl carafes is a fine idea, and we opted for a gorgeous, ripely full bodied Valpolicella Classico Nicolis 2004 (£19.50).

Once the food started arriving, we were very happy. My companion started with moules mariniere (£6.50) that was exemplary, and when I remarked that it was a relatively small portion, she retorted that it was exactly the right size. My Grille prawn cocktail (£7.50), with the prawns piled into a pretty patty, was splendid and wittily deconstructed the kitsch dish without sacrificing – in fact, enhancing – the delicious flavours.

For her main, my friend was very taken with her roast lamb rump (£14), which was cooked as she requested; medium to well done. Served in slices, it arrived with crinkly Savoy cabbage, lovely brown gravy infused with oregano oil and lentils.

I had a plump Dover sole (£14.50), which was the fish of the day. It was wonderful; a serious piece of fish, grilled so the edges were a crispy golden brown, covered in a mouth wateringly buttery cooking juices. Nicely waxed potatoes and artichoke hearts in a Mediterranean sauce were on the plate with it. Good call, all round.

We took up the recommendation of our helpful and knowledgeable waiter on the pudding front; dark chocolate truffle mousse and honeycomb cheesecake (£5.50 each). He knew was he was talking about; each of the enormous, rich offerings felt opulent and tasted a treat. I was especially taken with the marshmallow and raspberry ice cream served as a punchy, fruity contrast to the cream cheesecake.

We left very happily full of good quality, substantial food, and would have no compunction about recommending Harrogate Grille for a slap-up meal eaten in good-looking surroundings where comfort isn’t sacrificed for style. If it’s on expenses, then great. If not, it’s worth going just for the hell of it. But if you’re going to be a devil, bear in mind that the waistband of that sharp suit might not fit quite as comfortably on the way out as it did when you sat down.