The Terry's

The Independent on Sunday - 12th November 2006

For 51 weeks a year, Terry Durack is the toughest critic in the business; for one week only he likes to give a few crumbs back to our best and brightest chefs. Take your seats for the Terry’s.

The middle market is where the big money is. And we do, because we get top-flight cheffery for less, without all those frills that we didn’t want anyway.

This would also explain the trend towards big, gutsy, French brasserie cooking, in restaurants such as Brasserie M Cuisine Bourgeoisie in Twickenham, Soren Jessen’s Papillon, Nick Jones’s High Road Brasserie, the Room Group’s Hoxton Grille and the just-opened Chelsea Brasserie.